Donatella Versace’s collection pulsated with fresh energy, from the Chicago hip-hop dancers who featured in Bruce Weber’s short film for the brand that debuted at the show to the fast-moving models who hustled across a vast triangular runway space to beats from original Prince tracks, recorded by the late artist as a gift to the designer.
The designer said she loves change and that her aim is to push the brand forward. She’s certainly been true to her word, with a new chief executive officer, Jonathan Akeroyd, joining the team this month and a whole new — more ethereal — take on the Versace man.
While there has always been an element of swagger and showmanship — often in the form of look-at-me prints and colors, gold buttons and Medusa heads — this collection was different. Although the men were still tough and confident they had a more athletic energy — and a fluidity of movement.
Versace dressed them in roomy silhouettes, including long, billowing parkas done in parachute nylon; a black trench with sexy sheer sleeves; belted topcoats as languid as silk bathrobes, and silk blouson shirts.